Trail to Medicine Lodge: A Vivid Journey along the Santa Fe Trail and the Unveiling of the Indian Wars

In part two of Trail to Medicine Lodge provides a first-hand experience of a young freighter named Billy Dixon. Dixon describes his journey southward from Fort Harker to Fort Larned and across the Arkansas River to Medicine Lodge. During the trip, Dixon describes the sights along the Santa Fe Trail while traveling with the peace commission and a caravan of one hundred and sixty wagons, carrying food and clothing for the Indians.

Prepare to be transported across the historic Santa Fe Trail, witnessing the remarkable buffalo herds, confronting the daunting politics of the era, and meeting legendary Indian chiefs like Satanta and Black Kettle. Our journey is further enriched by meeting key figures like Colonel Leavenworth and Major Windcoupe. We're issued an order from General Sherman that puts us in a tight spot, but that's just the start of our challenges. We feel the tension of an embargo on trading with the Indians, and the thrill of escaping a wildfire, as we camp near the Medicine Lodge Treaty council grounds.

Next, we traverse the early Kansas Trails and delve into the Indian Wars, guided by Michael King's illuminating book. Hear firsthand accounts from bullwackers, Indian fighters, and freighters who journeyed the Santa Fe Trail. Get to know the Cheyenne Indians, understand the Kansas expansion and explore legendary events like the Battle of Beecher Island. All this and more, as we navigate through the riveting tales of the Wild West. Don't miss out on this engrossing adventure and the chance to reassess the history as we know. Click here to purchase the book Trails, Forts Treaties & Indian Wars. 

Transcript

Speaker 1: 0:23

Wild West Podcast proudly presents Part 2 of the Trail to Medicine Lodge. On October 8th, right in early the next morning we pulled out from Fort Harker for Plum Creek where there was a small road ranch. In front of us were 10 light horse drawn army ambulances to carry the peace commissioners, staff, the Kansas delegation and the newsmen. Moving behind them was our long train of freight wagons, pulled by six mule teams, carrying treaty goods and supplies. I found Sandborn to be on a horse. He moved about as if he was in charge, directing the movements, putting the train in motion. We presented quite an imposing appearance. Our wagon train was escorted by two companies of the 7th Cavalry, led by Captain Barnets. Major Joel Elliott commanded this military escort of 200 men. Our convoy moved along a military road south to Fort Larnad, onto the southern plains and into the teeth of a stiff southern wind. On October 10th we found ourselves following the old Santa Fe Trail along Great North Bend of the Arkansas River. We camped along the river that night, which was about 30 miles short to Fort Larnad. During the evening we found our camp in a mild form of commotion. A messenger arrived from the Medicine Lodge Council ground. The report was from General Sherman, who had telegraphed Fort Larnad's commander not to deliver more food to the Indians until the peace commissioners arrived. This order from General Sherman greatly concerned members of the peace commissioners. Knowing that a delay in promised goods to the Indians at Medicine Lodge would infuriate the chiefs who were bringing 5,000 of their people to the encampment, sanborn saddled his horse and informed the others that he would ride to Fort Larnad to persuade the post commander to release the rations. During the afternoon of October 11th, our long column of ambulances and wagons reached the wet and dry route intersection next to the Arkansas River. Our freight wagons crossed a Pawnee fork near its mouth. We traveled six miles and then turned east, leaving the Santa Fe Road, and crossed the river, making our camp one mile from the crossing. Meanwhile, the ambulances carrying commissioners Harney and Tappan, followed by newsmen, turned southwestern on the dry route and drove to Fort Larnad. At camp we learned that Sanborn successfully got another train of provisions on the road the following day, thus averting a severe problem.

Speaker 1: 3:07

At camp we were once again visited by our friend Henry M Stanley, who described his trip to Fort Launard. Stanley described to us how a complete change had been rectified to Fort Launard since Hancock's army had swept over the plains in the pursuit of Romanos and tall bulls legions. The shabby, dilapidated, vermin-breeding adobe and wooden houses had been torn down and new, stately buildings of sandstone were built in their place. The comfort of the troops had been taken into consideration by the architect and builder. The fort was now garrisoned by six companies of infantry and one company of cavalry. Major Meredith H Kidd was given command.

Speaker 1: 3:52

Stanley told us how, after the newsmen had glanced over the fort, they started for camp and, for the first time, he had experienced the crossing of the celebrated Arkansas River. This crossing took place three miles south of Fort Launard. Stanley explained how the river was very shallow at this point, with no place over two feet in depth. Stanley seemed amazed at how the river's southern banks were covered with luxuriant grasses, onto which the pedestrians sunk up to the mid-riff. Stanley described how the mules, when being released from the harnesses, plunged into tall grass and frolicked in the rich pasture, constantly braying their intense delight. Stanley concluded his conversation to us by stating how grateful he was for the trip and bid us good night.

Speaker 1: 4:41

We slept well into the night and the next day, on October 12th, we met up with this train out of Fort Launard, which increased our caravan by 60 wagons. These wagons contained food stores and presents the number of wagons in ambulances, with our expedition now reached 165. Six mules to each wagon and 200 cavalry horses, making the number of animals 1250. The number of men on the last leg of our trip, included the camp followers and scavengers, was 600. Thus, when on the march we presented quite a formidable appearance, joining us then in our company was Colonel Leavenworth, major Windcoupe, superintendent Murphy, colonel Rankin, captain John W Smith, interpreter, with a host of camp followers. These galleywags of camp followers pretended to have special commissions but followed us out of mere curiosity to live on the bountiful rations doled out by the commission. They all lived sumptuously, with no expense to themselves. It was a noticeable imposition on good nature.

Speaker 1: 6:01

On our first days, marched south from the Arkansas River, we saw about 10,000 buffaloes. They grazed in herds of about a thousand, with sentinels and vedettes marching isolated, far away from the herds, watching our advance suspiciously and snorting their alarm to the main body. During the mid-afternoon, a hunting party of reporters, staff members, bummers and some of the soldier escort rushed out to the peacefully grazing bison and began to shoot them. A few dismounted and cut out tons of buffalo steaks, but the dead animals were mainly left to rot where they fell. I remember seeing a wounded buffalo cow followed by six big lobe wolves. No hoofed animal could withstand these savage beasts. They were a terror to other wildlife on the plains. Wantonly, several buffaloes had been shot and left lying to rot on the ground. An orderly came riding down the line with strict orders, but if another man in the outfit fired another shot at a buffalo he would be placed in irons.

Speaker 1: 7:00

Between the Arkansas River and Medicine Lodge we were met by a number of noted Indian chiefs, mounted upon their finest horses and arrayed in their most splendid costumes. They carried themselves with dignity and in every feature revealed their racial pride and their haughty contempt of the white man. Among them I recall Satanta kicking bird and black kettle. Satanta, chief of the Kiowas, rode a big black horse and presented a magnificent appearance. Because of his complaint, an order had been issued against the killing of the buffaloes, a complaint that lay at the very heart of the grievances of the Indian against the white man. He declared that the buffaloes were the property of himself and his people, and to destroy the buffalo meant the destruction of the Indian Leading an nomadic life which prevented his tilling the soil. Even if he had wished to engage in agriculture, which he did not, the Indian saw that he would be deprived of his principal and most necessary food buffalo meat if the buffaloes were killed.

Speaker 1: 7:59

On our way to Medicine Lodge, our train of wagons was strung out for a distance of about two miles, accompanied by a strong escort of soldiers. We reached Medicine Lodge on the fourth day, where the treaty was to be held. When we arrived at the camp, the Indians were engaged in a meaningful ceremony of making medicine. To propitiate the ceremony, shields of tanned buffalo hides were slung on poles, all facing the sun. I was told later that the unsophisticated Aboriginals believed that the sun would aid them by turning their shields toward its rays. The medicine man whom they revered so much, whom they regarded as a prophet, priest and king, was absent. When we inquired about the missing medicine man, the natives said he was engaged in devout incantations.

Speaker 1: 8:51

The great camp was in beautiful hollow through which flowed the Medicine Lodge Creek, with its lovely wooded banks. Medicine Creek was a favorite place for the summer medicine making of the Indians, also for their winter camps. At the head of the camp was the Arapahos under Little Raven, with about 107 lodges. The Comanches posted their lodges in a fine grove with 100 lodges under 10 bears and silver brooch. Below the Comanches were the Kayawas, under the leadership of White Bear, black Eagle, sitting Bear and Kicking Eagle. The Kayawas posted 150 lodges and next were the Apaches 85 lodges under Poor Bear. The council grounds were in the center, in a grove of tall elms. Across the creek. From the council grounds was Black Kettle's camp of 60 lodges. The remainder of the Cheyennes were camped several miles away on the Semeron River.

Speaker 1: 9:47

A total of 5,000 Indians were encamped here, each Indian village being pitched in a circle. Thousands of ponies covered the adjacent hills and valleys near the camp. We went into camp on Medicine Lodge Creek to wait until the Indians had come. Near us was a small village of Indians to whom a runner came on the third day to notify them that some of their livestock had been stolen by the cause, a neighboring tribe. We could see the wave of excitement run over the village. The Bucks of the tribe ran to and fro getting ready for a pursuit. The squaws were no less active. They helped saddle the ponies and jabbered and screamed to each other. As each buck got ready, he rode away without waiting for his companions. They returned later in the day with their stolen ponies but had been unable to overtake the thieves.

Speaker 1: 10:46

I shall never forget the morning of October 28, 1867. At a distance of about two miles from our camp was the crest of a low swell in the plains. The background was the blue sky, a blue curtain that touched the brown plains. For a moment, I was dumbfounded at the sight of what was rising over that crest and flowing with vivid commotion toward us. It was a glittering, fluttering, gaily colored mass of barbarism. The flower and perfection of the war strength of the plains Indian tribes, the resplendent warriors, armed with all their equipment and adorned with all the regalia of battle, seemed to be rising out of the earth. Their number was estimated at 15,000, but I cannot vouch for its accuracy. As they came into plainer view, the Indians spread their ranks broader and wider to create as profound an impression as possible and inspire us deeply with their power. Now they could be heard chanting and singing.

Speaker 1: 11:45

Having arrived within a quarter of a mile of our camp, the Indians charged like a whirlwind, firing their guns and brandishing them above their heads. The charge was abruptly halted and the Indians stood at rest waiting for the negotiations to begin. The tribes represented were the Cheyenne, arapaho, kayawe, apache and Comanche. While the Indians were advancing and were about half a mile distant, orders were given in the camp that every man should retire to once to his tent and there hold himself in readiness to resist an attack which might be made at any moment.

Speaker 1: 12:24

My boyish curiosity got the better of me and I was standing just outside the door of my tent, gazing with an open mouth at the oncoming Indians. General Harney was walking up and down the line between the tents, encouraging the men, telling them not to be afraid, as we had enough men to whip all the Indians in sight. He saw me as he was passing my tent, tapping me on the shoulder with his riding whip. He said get back to your tent, young man. I lost no time in obeying him.

Speaker 1: 12:55

This fine old warrior made a lasting impression upon me. He passed back and forth in the camp street with a fire of courage burning in his eyes. He must have felt the responsibility of this critical movement and knew that the slightest break on either side would participate war. He made an imposing appearance on that memorable fall morning. He was gray haired, straight, broad-shouldered and towered to the commanding height of six feet six inches. General Harney was an experienced Indian fighter and exerted a powerful influence among the plains tribes. They knew him and respected him.

Speaker 1: 13:30

Believing that he had always told them the truth, the Indians drew up their horses at a distance of about 200 yards. General Harney had motioned them to stop and for their principal chiefs to come into camp. The latter were obedient to his request and, after dismounting, sat down with the peace commissioners. At the end of about an hour's conference, the main body of Indians was permitted to enter the camp. There were many Indian boys not more than ten years old among the warriors, which probably was a deception to create among us a belief that there were more fighting men than were actually in the ranks. Bringing up the rear were the squaws, and children and dogs. The squaws pitched their tepees on the creek inside of our camp. The young bucks spurned all friendly overtures, refusing to shake hands and sullenly conducting themselves. Many times, after riding through our camp, evidently to scrutinize it and gain an accurate knowledge of our strength, they withdrew and remained at a distance. During this time, the troops were intently watching every movement of the Indians, suspecting treachery at every turn.

Speaker 1: 14:37

The commission and the chiefs finally agreed upon the terms of the treaty, the main point of which was the Indians should keep south of the Arkansas River. I had reason to remember this particular provision in subsequent years, as did many another buffalo hunter. To venture south of the Arkansas for buffalo was to risk falling into the very jaws of the lion. As the Indians fought jealously for the preservation of the right which they declared had been given to them. At Madison Lodge, wagon loads of supplies and presents had been brought for the Indians, all of which were now distributed. The supplies were mainly blankets, clothing, hats, sugar, coffee and flour, which were issued to the headmen, which in turn made distribution among the families.

Speaker 1: 15:21

The Indians now seemed in much better humor. The day was warm, though fall was at hand and the heat brought much discomfort to some of the Indians, those, for instance, who put on every article of clothing that had been given to them. It was a comical sight to see some of the old bucks wearing two or three heavy coats and two high-crowned army hats, one on top of the other. Others were retired in army uniforms, but without trousers. The latter was a garment that no wild Indian could be induced to wear.

Speaker 1: 15:55

There was much trading going on between the soldiers and the Indians in a short time, but on the sly, as strict orders had been issued against it, especially trading any kind of firearms to the Indians. However, the temptation was too strong and I traded my old cap and ball six-shooter to an old Indian for three buffalo robes and other trinkets. About four o'clock in the afternoon of the day the Indians came in. We got orders to be ready to pull out in an hour. It was nearly sundown when we broke camp. We traveled until late that night to reach the Arkansas River crossing where we went over and made camp. We pulled into Fort Harker about November 1st and drove on to where the rest of the train was in camp.

Speaker 1: 16:43

While unloading our wagons at the post, a rumor spread that gave us some uneasiness, a rumor about what might happen to the fellows who traded firearms to the Indians at Medicine Lodge. The fine for a man who had sold a six-shooter would be $50, which was enough money to buy a whole lot of fun in those days. These arms were the United States government's property and proof that a man had sold a gun meant severe trouble. An order came to the men to turn in all their arms and looked as if I was in bad shape. In my predicament, frecky again came to my aid. Just in the nick of time he offered to lend me a six-shooter a six-shooter he personally owned. I turned in Frecky's gun and later received another, which I gave to him. By the time orders came for us to hitch up for a trip to Fort Leavenworth, we had grown somewhat tired of telling the boys that stayed behind all about the Medicine Lodge Treaty At Fort Harker was a lot of artillery that had been assembled in 1866 by General Hancock for an Indian campaign.

Speaker 1: 17:46

He found that dragging cannons here and there over the plains in pursuit of hostile Indians was about as feasible as hitting a hummingbird with a brick bat. The Indians moved like the wind or like shadows and were too wary of coming within range of artillery. So the cannons were parked at Fort Harker as useless. All of them were to be hauled back by wagon to Fort Leavenworth. Our trail led along the railway for miles and it seemed ridiculous that the cannons should not be transported by train. The cost of shipment would have been excessive, however, and in as much as the government owned the teams and wagons and was paying us by the month, there was no good reason why we should not be hauling cannons to Fort Leavenworth.

Speaker 1: 18:36

We made our first camp near Salina, kansas, and narrowly escaped losing our wagons by fire. In the early morning, a spark blew from a campfire into the tall, dry grass. Instantly the fire began running with the speed of a racehorse. All hands turned out to save tents, bedding and wagons, etc. By backfiring and beating out the flames near our tents, we were able to get the fire under control At best. However, we would have lost our wagons had it not been for our good luck in having the teams hitched before the fire broke out. Having the teams hitched enabled us to shift the position of the wagons as necessarily required.

Speaker 1: 19:15

The fires on the plains in fall and winter, after frost had cured the grass, were often a magnificent spectacle, especially at night when their radiance reddened the sky for many miles. The sky would be luminous, even though the fire was too far beyond the horizon to be seen Once under a strong headway. As the fire spread out over a wide area, it was difficult to arrest its progress. To the experienced plainsmen equipped with a flint or matches, there was no imminent danger, as he knew how to set out protective fires and ensure his safety. The big fires were rather terrifying nonetheless, especially to the tenderfoot Carried forward in the teeth of high, boisterous wind. The fire was appalling and there was something sinister and somber in the low roar that sent terror to the heart of wild animals. Fast clouds of smoke were carried into the heavens until the sun lost its radiance and hung red and dull like a copper shield in the opaque depths. The ashes of burned vegetation sifted down hour after hour, as if a volcano were throwing out fine lava dust. At night, when the wind was still, a fire on the plains was a beautiful sight In the far distance. The tongues of flames appeared so small that they looked like a red line of countless fingers pointing with trembling motion toward the sky. The danger of these fires to life in the plains country was commonly exaggerated. The grass that grew on the plains did not have the height to produce a sweeping, high-rolling fire such as was often seen in the tall blue-stem regions in eastern Kansas.

Speaker 1: 20:54

Upon reaching Fort Leavenworth, the wagons were unloaded, the outfits turned over to the government and the shavetail drivers paid off. I had a comfortable steak for a young fellow. I spent the winter in Leavenworth in Kansas City, mingling with the hearty frontiersmen and listening delightedly to their incomparable tales of adventure. I frequently went to my friend's home, the McCalls, where I always found a hospitable welcome. Several times I went out from both Leavenworth and Kansas City with hunting parties. In those days railroad companies used to promote personally conducted hunting parties to the Buffalo Range hunters coming from such distances as Cincinnati, chicago and St Louis.

Speaker 1: 21:42

Trails forts, treaties and Indian wars offers quintessential depictions of the early Kansas Trails from historical accounts and individual experiences. The author describes what it was like to travel along the Santa Fe Trail as a bullwacker, indian fighter and freighter. The book is complete with 10 chapters providing accounts of the early Cheyenne Indian culture and Kansas westward expansion, from the earliest conflicts to establishing military forts along the trails. This book features legendary figures from both sides, including Roman Nose and Jack Stillwell at the Battle of Beecher Island and Private Peck and First Lieutenant J E B Stewart in the Solomon's Fork battle.

Speaker 1: 22:25

The essays and short stories are formatted in chronological history, originating in 1857 and ending in 1868, covering the inception of the Central Plains Indian Wars during the Kansas expansion. Michael King relies on primary Kansas Historical Society reference documents to reveal the Indian depredation claims, giving the reader a more extensive understanding of the horrors of Indian incursions, especially when experienced by new settlers to the region. Trails, forts, treaties and Indian wars is based on true accounts in early Kansas history. The book is narrated by Brad Smalley and you can play the audio version of the book by scanning the QR code below each chapter. Trails, forts, treaties and Indian wars is now on sale at Amazoncom.